Ricciarelli: Traditional Italian Almond Cookies from Siena

Who doesn’t know Ricciarelli, the traditional almond cookies from Siena?

Soft, sweet and intensely flavoured with almonds, these little Italian treats are instantly recognisable by their elongated, almost diamond-shaped appearance, their snowy coating of icing sugar and the delicate cracks that form on the surface as they bake. The outside is lightly crisp, while the inside remains tender and slightly chewy.

Although they are now enjoyed throughout the year, Ricciarelli are particularly associated with Christmas in Tuscany. Alongside panforte and cavallucci, they are part of Siena’s rich tradition of festive sweets, a tradition that goes back several centuries.

A little history of Ricciarelli

The story of Ricciarelli is closely connected to that of marzipan, the sweet almond paste that was already popular in Siena during the fifteenth century. Historical records mention marzapani and marzapanetti served at lavish banquets and important celebrations. At the time, sugar was an expensive and relatively rare ingredient, so these delicacies were considered luxurious treats.

Marzipan was prepared not only in kitchens but also in convents and in the workshops of speziali — the apothecaries of the time, who had access to spices and aromatic ingredients. Over the centuries, these almond sweets evolved into the delicate biscuits we know today.

The origin of the name Ricciarelli is less certain. One popular legend attributes it to Ricciardetto della Gherardesca, a nobleman who supposedly brought an almond sweet back from the Crusades. According to the story, its shape reminded him of the curled slippers worn in the East. It is a charming tale, although the precise origin of the name has never been firmly established.

The name Ricciarelli appears in print in the early nineteenth century. In 1891, Pellegrino Artusi included a recipe titled Ricciarelli di Siena in his celebrated cookbook La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene, helping to establish the name in Italian culinary tradition. Today, Ricciarelli di Siena are protected by the PGI designation (Protected Geographical Indication), which recognises their close connection to the area of Siena.

The secret to making homemade Ricciarelli

As with many traditional recipes, there are countless variations. Some use orange zest, others different flavourings or slightly different proportions of almonds and sugar. My version uses vanilla, lemon juice and bitter almond extract to enhance the characteristic almond flavour.

There is one important secret, however: the dough needs to rest in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours, although it can be left for up to two days. This resting time is essential to the method and also makes the dough easier to handle when shaping the biscuits.

The egg whites should be whisked only until foamy, not beaten into stiff peaks. Once the almond flour and icing sugar have been added, the mixture should be soft and slightly sticky. A generous dusting of icing sugar helps you shape the biscuits and gives them their characteristic white finish.

During baking, the surface develops delicate cracks while the centre stays soft. Don't be tempted to leave them in the oven until they feel completely firm: Ricciarelli are fragile when hot and become more stable as they cool.

These cookies are wonderful with coffee or tea, and they also make a lovely homemade Christmas gift. Arrange them in a tin, perhaps with a ribbon around it, and you have a little taste of Siena to share.

Ricciarelli – Traditional Sienese Almond Cookies

Yield: 20 cookies
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Resting time: 24–48 hours
Cooking time: 15–16 minutes

Ingredients

• 200 g almond flour

• 200 g icing sugar, plus extra for shaping and dusting

• 60 g egg whites, at room temperature

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice

• Seeds from ½ vanilla pod

• 1 teaspoon bitter almond extract

Method

1. In a bowl, whisk together the egg whites, vanilla seeds, lemon juice and bitter almond extract. The egg whites should become foamy, but do not whip them into stiff peaks.

2. Add the almond flour and icing sugar. Mix with a spoon until you have a uniform dough.

3. Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate for at least 24 hours, or up to 48 hours.

4. Dust your work surface generously with icing sugar. Shape the dough into a log and cut it into pieces weighing approximately 20 g each.

5. Roll the pieces in icing sugar, coating the sides, then shape each one into the traditional elongated Ricciarello.

6. Arrange the cookies on a baking tray lined with baking paper, leaving space between them. Lightly moisten your fingertips with water and gently run them over the surface of each cookie. Dust again with icing sugar.

7. Preheat the oven to 170°C / 340°F, conventional setting. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the characteristic cracks begin to appear. Lower the temperature to 150°C / 300°F and bake for another 5–6 minutes.

8. Allow the Ricciarelli to cool completely on the tray before moving them. They will be delicate while warm and will firm up as they cool.

Storage

Store the cooled Ricciarelli in an airtight tin at room temperature. They keep well for up to two weeks.

Tips for perfect Ricciarelli

• Don't skip the resting time. The dough needs at least 24 hours in the refrigerator.

• Avoid overwhipping the egg whites. They should be foamy, not stiff.

• Handle the cookies carefully after baking. They are fragile while warm.

• Keep the icing sugar generous. It gives Ricciarelli their characteristic snowy finish.

Enjoy these traditional Sienese almond cookies with a cup of coffee or tea, or add them to your homemade Christmas cookie selection.