Neapolitan Genovese Sauce: Traditional Beef and Onion Ragù

The other week, I finally made Neapolitan Genovese, a traditional meat sauce that, despite its name, proudly belongs to Naples rather than Genoa.

I'd never made it before, but isn't this the perfect time to experiment with new recipes?

It was a big hit at home, especially when tossed with pasta and finished with plenty of grated Pecorino cheese. The sauce is rich, savoury and wonderfully comforting, thanks to the generous amount of onions and the long, slow cooking that allows all the flavours to come together.

Traditionally, Neapolitan Genovese is served with broken ziti, a long pasta that you snap into shorter pieces before cooking. I served mine with rigatoni, which hold the thick, rich sauce beautifully. I hope to make it again soon, perhaps with the traditional pasta and in good company. That would be lovely!

In the meantime, I'm sharing the recipe with you, hoping you'll soon enjoy it with your own loved ones.

And don't forget the Pecorino!

Neapolitan Genovese Sauce

Yield: 8 servings
Prep time: 25 minutes
Resting time: None
Cooking time: Approximately 3–5 hours, or until the beef is very tender and the onions have turned into a rich, brown sauce

Ingredients

• 1 kg beef, such as eye of round or top rump, cut into large chunks

• 1 celery stalk

• 1 carrot

• 2 kg golden onions or Tropea red onions (avoid white onions)

• 2 bay leaves

• Black pepper or chilli, to taste

• 1 kg broken ziti, or another short pasta

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt, to taste

• Grated Pecorino Romano or Grana Padano, for finishing

Method

1. Heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan or earthenware pot. Add the beef, cut into large stew-sized chunks, and brown it on all sides.

2. Finely chop the celery and carrot. Add them to the pot along with the bay leaves and cook for another couple of minutes.

3. Finely slice all the onions and add them to the pot. Season with salt and add a little water to help the onions begin to soften.

4. Cover and cook over a very low heat, stirring occasionally. Let the sauce simmer gently, adding a little water if needed to prevent it from sticking or drying out.

5. There is no single cooking time for Genovese. It is ready when the onions have become deeply golden-brown and creamy, and the beef is so tender that it practically falls apart and blends into the sauce. This usually takes several hours, so be patient: slow cooking is the secret to its flavour.

6. Remove the bay leaves. Taste and adjust the salt and black pepper, adding chilli if you like a little heat. Break the beef apart with a wooden spoon if it hasn't already fallen apart into the sauce.

7. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. If using traditional ziti, break them into shorter pieces before cooking.

8. Drain the pasta and toss it thoroughly with the Genovese sauce. Finish with plenty of grated Pecorino or Grana Padano and serve immediately.

Notes

• The pasta matters: Broken ziti are the traditional choice. If you can't find them, use another short pasta shape.

• Don't rush the cooking: The onions need time to soften, caramelise and create the characteristic thick sauce. Keep the heat low and add a little water whenever necessary.

• Cheese: Pecorino gives the dish a particularly savoury finish, while Grana Padano is a milder alternative.

• Make ahead: Like many slow-cooked ragùs, Genovese can be prepared in advance. Refrigerate promptly and reheat gently before tossing with freshly cooked pasta.